Solutions to keep your home toasty through all of winter's chills
For over 10 years, we've worked with brands like American Standard and Mitsubishi Electric to deliver high quality furnace solutions to customers everywhere. All our staff members are certified and well trained to work on all kinds of furnaces, both traditional and modern.
From our years of operation, we've found that over 50 percent of our furnace customers experience a furnace problem after 5 PM. To ensure that we meet all their needs, we have a rapid response team that is always a call away. Get started with Genesis as your trusted furnace partner.
The Genesis team is capable of repairing and installing any common furnace system. Currently, our team specializes in American Standard furnaces which stand out for their exceptional quality, reliability, and efficiency at an affordable price point.
Renowned for innovative engineering, these furnaces deliver consistent and energy-efficient heating. With a focus on durability, American Standard ensures long-lasting performance, minimizing the need for repairs. Advanced features like variable-speed technology and smart thermostats optimize comfort and energy usage.
Their commitment to environmental sustainability is reflected in high-efficiency models that meet or exceed industry standards. Backed by a legacy of excellence, American Standard furnaces offer homeowners a trustworthy and efficient heating solution, ensuring comfort in every season.
Mitsubishi Electric, American Standard, RunTru by Trane, and Midea. We are a Mitsubishi Electric Diamond Preferred Contractor — the middle of their three tiers, above Diamond Contractor — and an American Standard dealer. Which brand suits your house depends on the job — we will tell you when the cheaper line is genuinely enough.
Yes. We repair and service every brand, whatever the last company put in — the badge on the front does not decide whether we can help. The four brands we install are a separate thing: those are the lines we install and warranty. What can genuinely get in the way is parts on very old or discontinued equipment, and if that is the situation we will tell you before you are into it, not after.
Yes — through Synchrony and Hearth, with plans running from 6 months to 132 months, including several at 0% APR. There is no prepayment penalty on any of the plans, so paying it off early costs you nothing extra. Real monthly figures for your project size are on the financing page; they are calculated from the actual plan terms rather than estimated.
Yes — replacing a furnace, heat pump or air conditioner is mechanical work and needs a permit in every jurisdiction we serve. Which office issues it depends on your address, not just your mailing city. Each incorporated city runs its own — Monroe, Snohomish, Lake Stevens, Everett, Sultan, Gold Bar and Duvall all issue their own mechanical permits — while unincorporated addresses go through Snohomish County PDS or King County, and Index and Skykomish issue their own. Tell us your address and we will tell you which one applies to you.
It depends mostly on what you heat with now. If your house runs on electric baseboard or wall heaters, a heat pump is close to a straight win: resistance heat gives you about one unit of heat per unit of electricity and a heat pump gives you roughly three, and that difference repeats every cold month for the life of the system. If you have a working gas furnace, the math is closer and depends on your gas and electric rates — and a heat pump also gives you cooling, which a furnace never will. We will walk through both rather than steer you.
Whatever a load calculation says — not what is there now, and not square footage times a rule of thumb. A proper Manual J load calculation accounts for insulation, window area and orientation, air leakage, ceiling height and your actual design temperature. It matters more than people expect: an oversized system short cycles, never runs long enough to even out temperatures or pull humidity, wears its compressor out faster, and costs more to buy. “The old one was a four-ton so we will put in a four-ton” is how an original sizing mistake gets inherited for another twenty years.
Fifteen to twenty years is normal for a maintained system in this climate, and our conditions are gentler than most of the country — no long stretches of extreme heat or deep cold to work against. Two local exceptions. Near the water in Everett, salt air is hard on outdoor coils and shortens the outdoor unit specifically. Up the valley, snow load and drifting mean a unit that sits too low spends part of the winter buried, which is a mounting-height question at install time, not a repair later.
They tend to win different jobs. Mitsubishi Electric is the stronger answer for ductless and inverter-driven work — mini splits and multi-splits, additions, houses with no ductwork, and anywhere you want room-by-room control; we are a Diamond Preferred Contractor. American Standard is a straightforward choice for conventional ducted systems, gas furnaces and matched heat pump systems, and RunTru sits below it when the budget is the constraint and the job does not need the top line. We will tell you when the cheaper line is genuinely enough.
If your ductwork runs through a crawlspace or an unheated attic — which most of it does in houses around here — then it is worth having looked at before you spend money on equipment. Leaky, disconnected or uninsulated ducts dump conditioned air into spaces nobody lives in, and the usual symptoms are one room that never keeps up, an air handler that runs constantly, and dust that comes back a week after cleaning. Duct sealing, duct repair and adding proper zoning or dampers frequently do more for comfort than replacing a system that was working.
Check the thermostat fan setting first — if it is on ON rather than AUTO, the blower runs continuously and pushes unheated air between burner cycles, which feels exactly like a broken furnace and is not one. After that, the common causes are a clogged filter that has overheated the furnace into a limit-switch lockout, a failed ignitor or flame sensor so the burners are not lighting, or a blocked flue. Change the filter and try a thermostat reset. If it still blows cold, stop there and call — repeated lockouts are the furnace protecting itself from something.
Short cycling — turning on and off every few minutes without satisfying the thermostat — is almost always restricted airflow or an overheat condition. Start with the filter and make sure supply and return vents are not blocked by furniture or rugs. Beyond that, the causes are a dirty flame sensor, a failing limit switch, a thermostat mounted somewhere it reads the wrong temperature (in sunlight, above a heat source, on an exterior wall), or a furnace that was oversized for the house when it was installed. Short cycling burns out components faster than running does, so it is worth chasing down rather than living with.
It is a diagnostic code, and the key to reading it is printed on a label inside the furnace door — count the flashes, or the pattern of long and short, and look it up on that label. It is worth doing before you call, because the code tells us what to bring. Do not treat a code as a repair instruction, though: several different faults share a flash pattern on most equipment, and “pressure switch open” can mean anything from a blocked intake to a cracked heat exchanger, which is a safety issue rather than an inconvenience.
A standard one-inch filter every one to three months; a four- or five-inch media cabinet filter every six to twelve. Shorten that if you have pets, allergies, or construction going on nearby. One thing worth knowing: a very high MERV filter in a system not designed for it restricts airflow and can cause the exact overheating and short cycling it was meant to prevent, so higher is not automatically better. If you cannot see light through it, it is overdue.
Three things decide it: age against expected life, what this repair costs relative to a replacement, and whether it is the first repair or the third. A fifteen-to-twenty-year-old system needing an expensive part is usually a replacement conversation; a ten-year-old system needing a $200 part is not. Worth factoring in that a high efficiency furnace or heat pump costs less to run every month you own it, which shifts the arithmetic on a borderline call. Two things force the answer — a cracked heat exchanger, which is a carbon monoxide risk and is never worth repairing around, and older equipment on a discontinued refrigerant, where the refrigerant costs more than the repair. We will tell you which conversation you are actually in.
Two separate things, and it is worth knowing which is which. The manufacturer covers the parts, and that term comes from Mitsubishi Electric or American Standard rather than from us — registration is usually required, and we handle it. The labor warranty is ours: one year on any install, and ten years if you are on one of our maintenance plans. That is the honest reason the plans exist. A part being free does not help much when the labor to fit it is not, and the plan is also what keeps the manufacturer's parts coverage valid, since most warranties require documented annual maintenance. See our maintenance plans.
Repairs, maintenance, or a new-system walkthrough — schedule in a few taps or give us a call.